Big Bang Theory Plastic Canvas

I LOVE the Big Bang Theory show and thought it would be fun to create a plastic canvas project featuring the guys. I’m sure you’ve all seen the Beatles hair look-a-like art using Sheldon, Leonard, Howard, and Raj’s hair. I took that and made a pattern for you!

BBT pattern teaserI chose to stitch mine on size 14 canvas. I’ve only ever used size 7 canvas before and wanted to try something else. Size 14 it tiny! You have to use embroidery thread instead of yarn. I’m not really sold on size 14 yet, but it was nice to try something new. Check out the size difference below.


The pattern lists what the dimensions of your finished project will be using size 14, 10, and 7 canvas. You pick the size and have fun!

I tried to use colors that I felt each character wore often for the background of their individual section. Feel free to change the colors or even use one color for the entire background.

Click on the link below to download the pattern.

Big Bang Theory Hairstyles pattern



Mulan Inspired Hair Comb

You can use this Mulan inspired hair comb as decoration or wear it as part of a costume. I used paperclay to make the comb. This clay air drys hard and light. In other words, the comb is light enough to wear in your hair all day, but secure enough that you shouldn’t have to worry about breakage.


  • paperclay
  • clay tools and exacto knife
  • paint: white, aqua, turquoise, antique pink
  • paintbrushes
  • gold 3D paint
  • E6000 or hot glue
  • water
  • wax paper
  • 4 inch protractor or round bowl with 4 inch diameter
  • scrap paper

protractor-circleTaking your scrap paper and your protractor/bowl, create a half circle and cut out to make your guide.

Place some wax paper over your guide and wet the surface with a little bit of water.

ready-to-startBreak off some of your paperclay (make sure you store left over clay in an airtight container such as a ziploc bag). Remember when using paperclay to keep water at hand. If the clay starts to stick to your hands or isn’t molding well, wet your hands to add moisture to the clay. Remember: paperclay air dries. Using your guide, create a half circle out of paperclay about 1/8 inch thick.

thickness-in-centimetersNext, take your knife and make a score line about 1/3 inch from the boarder. Do not cut all the way through. You’re just marking a guide so you can cut the teeth of the comb.

scoringNow you can score lines for your teeth. I scored mine just under 1 centimeter wide. Don’t like where your score line is? That’s okay. Just smooth over the scoreline with your finger. Once you have the teeth scored how you like them, fully cut the lines and work the sections out. I used the tip of my knife to start pulling the clay up. Remember not to cut the line at the top of your arch on the teeth that need to stay in.


smooth-over-score-lintSmooth over the score line on the arch area of your teeth. Taking your knife, create a taper on the ends of the teeth so they are not squared.

Next we’re going to create the “leaves” for the flower. You will need 4 for each side so 8 total. The sizes can very a bit. These will be shaped like a triangle. See the photo below for shape and size reference.

leavesOne thing I love about paperclay is that you can use water to attach clay pieces. The water acts almost like a glue. So, keeping that in mind, put water along the edge of the leave to help attach to the comb. You can overlap your leaves a bit then use a damp finger or wet clay tool to smooth out.


 You can see in the photos to the left how I overlapped my leaves just a little then used my clay tool, dipped in water, to start smoothing the leaves out. I finished smoothing them out with my finger.using-tool-to-attach-leaves
You can see in the photo below that all my leaves are attached and smoothed out.
Next we need to create the flower petals. There will be 5 petals. Once again you will be creating triangular shaped pieces, just on a larger scale. You will notice that I folded 3 of the petals over and left two flat.
Test your layout to make sure the size of your petals is right and remember where each petal needs to go.
layout-of-petalsThe petals will overlap each other, but this time we won’t smooth out the overlap. Start with the bottom most piece and, using water, attach to the comb and smooth out the seam. Continue with the next one, smoothing out the seam where you attach the comb but don’t smooth out the overlap.
using-water-to-attach-petalFor the top 3 petals, do the sides first. I dipped my finger in water and ran it along the entire underside of the folded petal. You can them smooth out onto the comb to help attach as shown below.
underside-of-petal-smoothed-outYou can run the thin end of your clay tool, dipped in water, along the inside seam of the petals to help smooth it out a little and help with attachment.
Attach the middle piece of the top petals. Smooth this out like the others, but don’t smooth the petal overlaps.
attaching-last-petalIt’s time to let your comb dry. This may take a few days to dry completely. Let dry overnight before you peel off the wax paper. You’ll know when it is dry when it is no longer cool to the touch. After a good 24 hours, you might turn the comb over. Only do this if the flower petals feel stable and are no longer cool in temperature.
While the comb is drying, you can create the stamen for the flower. These are the little pink stems that come out of the center of the blossom.
Start with making a long, thin rope out of some paperclay. You can see that mine is just over 3 inches long.
3-inch-roll-for-stamin-watermarkedCut your rope into 3 pieces. They don’t have to be perfectly even, but should be similar in length. Roll one end in a bit and pinch the other end flat as you can see in my photo below.
rolled-staminLet your stamen dry. These are small enough that it should only take an hour or two for these to completely dry and harden.
Once everything is dry you can start painting. The photo below shows the paint colors I used. I could only find Turquoise in chalkboard paint but that’s okay. My antique pink color is called Berries ‘N’ Cream and is so old that I’m not even sure this brand is still around.
paints-usedYou will use the turquoise on the leaves, the aqua on the comb arch and the teeth, the white on the flower petals, and the pink on the stamen.
Make sure you get in all the creases. I also painted the back of the comb. If it’s just for decoration, this may not be a necessary step, but if you plan to wear the comb you will most definitely want to paint the back.

The next step, once your paint is dry, is to take your 3D gold paint and outline the petals, leaves, and arch of the comb. In the movie it shows all the comb’s teeth outlined in gold, but I just don’t have a steady enough hand to do that kind of detail.

3d-gold-paint-on-comb-watermarkedLet your gold paint dry completely. Drying time will depend on the thickness of your lines.


You should have painted your stamen pink. I used E6000 with a precision tip for jewelry to attach the stamen to the comb.

e6000-shotPut the glue on the flat end of the stamen and glue to inside of flower.

attached-staminE600 takes a full 24 hours to bond. It may feel stable sooner than that though. Avoid moving the stamen or wearing the comb until the 24 hours is up.


There you have it! You’re own Mulan inspired hair comb ready to display or complete a cosplay outfit.



DIY Ursula Earrings

I’m hosting a Disney themed letterboxing event next weekend and have encouraged participants to come in costume. I am going all in as Ursula and so I had to make these DIY Ursula earrings out of actual seashells.

You will need:

  • Auger seashells–minimum of 2 but good to have extra
  • purple paint
  • paintbrush
  • jump rings and ear wires
  • dremel
  • 1/16 drill bit

I found a bottle full of decorative auger seashells at a local store. It contained about 25 shells. I pulled out about 6 that were similar in size and length thinking that I would most likely break at least one of them when I drilled the holes. Miraculously I didn’t.

20160717_150748Insert your 1/16 bit into your dremel. Your bit can get too hot when drilling for a long period of time. This heat can cause problems when drilling something like a shell and make the item hard to hold onto. To help keep the shell cool so it wont break, place the shell underwater in an old container. I placed the shell on top of some thick foam to give myself a buffer in case the bit went too far when it drills through.

drilling-seashell-watermarkedStart off on the slowest speed. Until you get a grove in the shell your dremel may slip around a bit so keep your hands clear from the end you’re drilling. Hold the other end of the shell firmly. Once you get a good grove you can turn the speed up a little. This will take a few minutes to drill all the way through. If you need to stop and let your dremel cool off a bit, that’s okay.

seashell-with-drilled-hole-watermarkedYour shell should look similar to the photo above once you have your hole. Drill another shell to match. Let dry completely.


Time to paint! I had to put a few coats of paint on due to the smooth surface of the shell.


All that’s left is to add the jump rings and ear wires and, ta da, you’re done! Enjoy your Ursula earrings!


Tangled inspired Rapunzel Tower part 2

Last week I showed you how to create your tower area of this DIY Rapunzel Tower. Now I’m going to show you how to create the top and add the extra features to finish your project; moss and Rapunzel’s braid.

You will be using most of the same supplies as last week.

  • Paperclay
  • paint — purple, dark grey, and Bambi brown (tan)
  • Ground cover (moss)
  • Embroidery thread
  • cardstock paper — 2 pages
  • clay working tool and exacto knife
  • hot glue gun


paperclayToolsembroidery thread colorsFor the embroidery thread, you can see the numbers for the colors I used above. I used size 5 which is 27 yards.

Let’s get started!

First, take your two pieces of cardstock, stacked on top of each other, and roll into a cone. Tape your cone off with masking tape and level out the open end so it is similar to the one in the photo below.

paper cone

This will give you a sturdy form to put your clay on. Cover entirely in clay and let dry. Remember when working with paperclay to keep water nearby and use the water to help blend the clay. This could take up to two days to dry completely.

clay covered coneIf you wish to take the time to cut shingles into the roof, have fun. I originally intended to do so myself, but I was on a time schedule and knew that cutting shingles in would take at least two extra days.

“But why do I have to let it dry before moving on?”

If it isn’t dry, you take the risk of smushing your cone. It will be much easier to work with once dry as you can hold onto it firmly without fear of ruining the work you’ve done.

To attach the cone to your tower, roll out a long “rope” of clay. Center your cone on the top of your tower and lay the clay rope around the base of the cone. Work the clay out, blending it onto both the cone and the tower.

top attachmentI had already blended my clay rope out and had started adding the roof overhang before I remembered to take a picture. Don’t worry if you can still see the top of your container after you’ve attached your cone. It will get covered up when you do the overhang.

roof overhang

I flattened out some circular shaped pieces of clay and attached them to the top, blending the top of the new piece onto the cone.

roof overhang take 2

Don’t worry if the edge of the overhang isn’t nice and even. Remember that this tower has been standing for who knows how long. It’s not brand new. It should look like it’s been exposed to the elements.

Let your overhang pieces dry completely.  You’re almost done with the claywork. Yay! Use some small pieces of clay, rolled into ropes, to put underneath the overhang, where the tower meets the roof.

roof overhang completedThis will ensure that you can no longer see the container you used at the top of the tower. Don’t worry about having to blend the clay over the area you have already painted. You can repaint once it’s dry.

All that is left to do with the clay is the mini tower room (if you choose to have one) and the chimney. My mini tower room was made of a solid piece of clay that I rolled into a short cylinder. Use water to attach and help blend onto the roof. Shape a cone and attach to the cylinder. Create an overhang. You can see my completed mini tower below.

mini tower

I designed my chimney, inspired by the concept art I mentioned last week, by creating another cylinder. I attached the bottom to the roof then used my clay tool to work a hole into the top. Next I took my exacto knife and carefully cut out the notches. Again, you can see the finished product in the photo below.

chimenyLet everything dry completely, then paint your roof. I used the dark grey for the chimney. Paint under the overhang as well.

Now it’s time to heat up your hot glue gun and start attaching your moss.

To make your braid, open the thread up so you have a circle of thread. Find the end of the thread and cut through all the threads there. You should now have a long strand of many threads. Fold this in half and cut all the threads again. Do this with the other two colors as well.

Lay your thread out and start mixing the colors, pulling a few strands of each until you have one bundle of thread, colors mixed together. I chose to use three different colors so it would look more realistic. Look at any head of hair and you will notice the subtle natural highlights. Using just one color didn’t seem right.

braid topMake sure all the loose ends of thread are even on one end. Pull an individual thread out and tie it around the bundle, about 1/3 of an inch from end, securing your bundle.

If needed, trim your ending to make the threads even. Cut off excess thread from your knot but don’t throw away.

Start braiding! Stop your braid before any shorter ends start to stick out. Use the excess thread from securing the top to tie off the bottom of the braid.

braidYou can trim the ends up a little if you have some threads that are a lot longer. You don’t want to even out the entire end as that wouldn’t look very realistic.

I used hot glue to attach the top of the braid to the tower window.

That’s it! You now have your very own Rapunzel tower!

Let me know how it turned out or if you have any suggestions to make the process easier.

Below is a 360 degree look at my finished tower.

completed back viewcompleted front viewcompleted right viewcompleted left view